Twice a year, around January and August, the migration crosses into the Masai Mara, which is the northern extension of the Serengeti Plains in Kenya. Here they cross the Mara River en masse, in one or two well-defined crossings.
Today, the word safari is used to refer to any kind of journey, in Africa or elsewhere. We speak of hunting safaris, or photo safaris, river safaris, mountain safaris, gorilla safaris and so on. In many ways, it now is synonymous with an exotic vacation in a remote, wild place.
Hunting safaris were practically a necessity in the early days of African adventure travel. Back before mobile refrigeration, travelers across the African heartland had to shoot meat as they went in order to eat.
One of the great safari experiences is to watch the Great Migration as it crosses the Mara River.
Why is Gabon such a fresh and exciting safari destination? Because Gabon is home to some of the wildest, most unspoiled wildlife habitat in all of Africa. Though threatened by logging and mining, there are still large tracts of land that are untouched by modern man. That’s why many a traveler there comes back entranced, saying parts of Gabon are what Africa must have looked like before the first white man got there. I agree with that estimation, and I say that from experience, having lived two years in the remote reaches of northeastern Gabon, some 300 miles from the country’s capital.
Zimbabwe used to be home to some of the most exciting safaris in the world, but recent troubles there have kept all but the most seasoned adventurers away. One of the classic safaris there is a raft or canoe trip down the Zambezi River to Mano Pools.
The great difference in my mind between a hunting safari and a photo safari is that a hunter takes a shot, and the animal is gone forever. A photographer, on the other hand, takes a shot, and the animal is there tomorrow for someone else to discover in all its glory.
Where is the new safari frontier? For my money, it's in Zambia, the Selous of southern Tanzania, and perhaps most tantalizingly, in Gabon in West Africa.
And these new parks represent the frontier of African safaris because of the vital habitat and animal life they will eventually make available to travelers, offering everything from sea turtles and whales to forest elephants, rhinos, gorillas, buffalo, and numerous plant and bird species found only in Gabon. And up near Mvadi, and in other reaches of northeastern Gabon, there is the chance to develop gorilla safaris.
That is why I encourage you to go on safari today. If it’s your first safari, I recommend you go to the Masai Mara in Kenya and the Serengeti in Tanzania. If you’ve done that classic safari, then you should consider a gorilla safari to the Bwindi Impenetrable Forest, or what I consider to be the best safari in the world, a safari to Botswana’s Okavango Delta, in the Moremi Reserve and Chilwero National Park.
Safari is one of the great experiences a family can share. Where else can a grandfather and his grandson, a mother and a teenage son, or a father and daughter share the joy and wonder of an experience that is novel for both?
Of course there is so much more to see on safari than just the Big Five. There's my favorite, the cheetah. And so many others. Like the elusive and nocturnal striped hyena, or the rare wild cat that I saw in the rocky "kopjes" at Kusini in the western Serengeti, or chimpanzee in the Kanyawara Reserve in the Kibale Forest near Fort Portal in Uganda. And let’s not forget the Mountain Gorilla found in the Bwindi Impenetrable Forest in Uganda along the borders of Rwanda and Congo.
Whereas the classic Serengeti safari is a magnificent experience, my favorite African safari is to the Okavango Delta of Botswana.
Here, in the world's largest inland delta, the waters of the Okavango River disappear into the sands of the Kalahari Desert. This remote area is increasingly accessible to high-end travelers and, in my experience, you can see lion, leopard and cheetah each and every day, as well as a steady supply of hyena, elephant, giraffe, zebra, wildebeest, and baboon. And, if you’re lucky, you may just get a rare glimpse of Africa’s most endangered large carnivore, wild dogs, also known as the “painted dogs of the Kalahari”.
In September 2002, President El Hadj Omar Bongo announced that Gabon would set aside more than 10,000 square miles (26,000 square kilometers) of land to form a national park system protecting 13 separate parks. These parks represent some of the last pockets of true wilderness in Africa ... I should know, I traipsed through them for 2 years from 1981 to 1983. The parks will protect pristine rain forests, mangroves, savannas, ancient forests, lagoons, marshes, rivers, and canyons.